Thursday, April 9, 2009

A-Line Skirt Tutorial



(Disclaimer...this is according to me and my directions. Hope you get it!)


So here goes the tutorial as requested on how I made an A-line skirt. I highly recommend the book I spoke about in my last post as this is where I started. I have since modified it to make it easy for me and my lack of sewing vocabulary.


You will need:

1 3/4 yard fabric

1 yard no-roll 3/4" elastic

matching thread

(optional) Rick-Rack or other fun embellishments


Next you need to figure out the pattern for you. I love this skirt b/c it was designed for me. Not a size 6, 8 or 10, but me. And the waist hits me where I want it to. For this tutorial, I made a pattern and skirt for Lauren. No one really wants to see what my hip measurements are. ;)

Formula for pattern measurements are:


1. Waist, (where you want the waist of the skirt to sit is where you should measure. Natural waist vs. hips or some where in between).

* ex. Waist 21" + 2" seam allowance + 1" ease = 24 / 4 = 6"



2. Hips, (the widest part)

* ex. Hips 22" + 2 " seam allowance + 3" ease = 27 / 4 = 7"



3. Rise or waist to hips.

*ex. 4" + 2" seam allowance at waist = 6"


4. Desired Length

*ex. 13" + 1" hem + 3" seam allowance at waist = 17"



**Assume all seam allowances at 1/2" and the ease is for a little extra breathing room.



Next, mark out your pattern. I did mine on the back of Christmas wrapping paper. You could use newspaper, pattern paper, etc.



1. Place a mark on the far left edge about 1-2" from the top.


2. Place another mark 1" above.


3. From mark #1, measure down _" for your rise or waist to hips. (Lauren was 6". See chart above if more detail is needed)


4. From mark #1, measure down your desired length and mark. (Lauren was 17")


5. From mark #2, measure straight out your waist measurement. (Lauren was 6")


6. From mark #3, measure straight out your hip measurement. (Lauren was 7")


7. Now connect #5 & #6 while continuing your straight line past them hem.


8. Draw a curved line from #1 to #5 for your waist (you will cut using this line)


9. And finally for your hem line, measure down __" on random spots from your curved waist line to the bottom. Connect these dots to find your curved hem. (see pattern above for visual detail)




Are you lost yet? That was the hardest part. I promise. Once you make your pattern you are on easy street with nothing else to do but make tons of cute skirts.


Cut out your pattern. You now have 1 piece that is actually 1/4 of your skirt.




Lay the straight edge of the pattern on the fold of the material. Pin and cut. Now move your pattern down and repeat for the other half of your skirt. (since this material was so easy to cheat on and Lauren is so small, I actually folded this in half again and only had to cut it one time to get my 2 pieces. I don't recommend this for an adult size skirt or most materials.)

Place right sides together and sew side seams with 1/2" seam allowance.


Once both sides are sewn, press seams open and finish seams to prevent fraying. This can be done many different ways. I don't think it matters as long as the edges are finished in a fashion that prevents your skirt from coming apart in the wash.

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UPDATE::

Here is a pic of the finished side seam on a different skirt. It makes for some pretty top stitching on the outside of your finished skirt. Gives it a less "home made" look. Very easy to do with a straight stitch down either side of your pressed center seam.

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Be sure to slip your skirt on at this point to be sure it is working the way you think it should. Remember, it will be big and long at this point. What matters most is that you can get it over your hips with ease.

The elastic waist band is next. I used a double fold at the top of the skirt. For Lauren's skirt, I used a 1/2" no roll elastic, but in mine I used a 3/4". What ever you choose is good, just be sure to leave the appropriate width for your elastic. Iron waist down. Sew waist down leaving several inches to feed your elastic through.




Next, feed your elastic through the waist band. I like to use a large safety pin clipped to the end to help push my elastic through. (I learned that back in the day when I was a scrunchy making machine. And yes I had a hot pink one. The more fluffy the better!)



Before cutting your elastic, try the skirt on again and fit the elastic to your waist. Be sure it is loose enough to move around in. Remember, it's elastic and not meant to be too restricting.


Cut elastic at desired length and sew ends together. Be sure elastic has not rolled inside the waist.


Now sew the waist band closed.


Moving on to the bottom hem. I double folded the hem to prevent fraying and ironed it down. Before sewing, try your skirt on to check the length or the pressed hem.



Sew hem with either a straight stitch or a fun zig-zag. Yeah! Your skirt is finished.


If you want to add a little something extra to your skirt, it is real easy. I chose rick-rack for the 3 that I have made. I recommend a 5/8" or larger as it is more visible and easier to work with. It can be found at JoAnn's in the aisle with "sold by the yard" ribbon, lace, embellishments, etc.


I added the rick-rack on the underside of the hem and used a straight stitch allowing just half of the rick-rack to hang out.


VIOLA! Finished skirt! The next one will be much faster as your pattern is already drafted and you have a better idea of what you want for your skirt.


Oh...and here is what my spool of pink thread looked like at the end of this skirt. I've never used this much of any one spool before. Had to take a pic. (No...this skirt didn't use that much thread.)

5 comments:

Jonna said...

Wow.
Those skirts are super adorable, especially on Miss Lauren looking all mature in that picture!
You are one talented mama!

Anonymous said...

so how did you decide to finish off the inside seams? i always find that it a lot of extra work.

Heather Rodriguez said...

I am so make DOZENS of these! I love them and that is so easy I am pretty sure even *I* can do it!! Thanks CINDY!!!! You are a doll!

Cindy said...

K-I will take a pic of the finished inside seams the way I chose to do it. I think it was very easy to do and fast. Just a simple straight stitch down either side of the seam. And it appears to have washed well. I'll add it at the bottom of this post as an updated pic. Hope this works for you. And why can't we all have a serger? ;)

Gramma Dot said...

Thanks for all the work posting this! I can't wait to make my own pattern/skirt!!!